IF you move, you trigger an Opportunity of attack from your opponent.
OR
Opponent may claim OVERWATCH (remember spacehulk?), now he gets to fire at any units that move per overwatch points allotted.
OR
lets say a turn is based on 10 points (10 shots)…on your attack phase, you may turn in 1 point for 2 overwatch points…..thus preventing the opponent from moving—pinning them down! Alternatively the moving player can spend 2 points for COVER FIRE (this makes the shooter pick a shooter amongst his army men—if the mover is able to take out the disgnated shooter…..the cover fire is successful and the overwatch player does not get to fire.
What do you think? -F4x4
Sounds good, yes agreed….more shooting is good. Here is an interesting pic……maybe a way to associate WHO or WHAT is shot at. Could use standard Playing cards
Will there be any MOVEMENT involved in the game? Maybe movement could define success when an opposing players units “capture the flag” OR to hide army men behind a bunker for cover.
Handicaps: maybe WINS should be tracked and a system used as a handicap for players that arent so great at shooting (aka ME)? Levels could be Private, Corporal, Seargant……ect
Army points? build a force based on existing command structures.
May have to make three or four versions of the game depending on what speed in which you wish to play. I like the idea of roll the dice shoot and race the clock. Also like the idea of setting up two army’s facing the shooters and having the army men or zombies advance forwards after each round once they reach a line points are accumulated you could actually play by yourself that way.
Another idea that you may want to use………..what if its movement, not an individual soldier level,,,,,but SQUAD level. Simply cut a piece of cardboard out for the squad……glue with elmers glue the squad to the cardboard…then attach 10 meter string. On MOVEMENT phase…..pull string!
What do you think?
Have you worked out the dice rolling mechanic yet?
or will you use Playing Cards? ex= Each player picks a suit , like Hearts, and the color RED. if you draw a card that matches your suit, you get another shot! Dont know what you would do with Faces. Here is some more data about cards…if you wish to go that route:
Face cards – Jacks, Queens, and Kings are called “face cards” because the cards have pictures of their names.
One-eyed Royals – The Jack of Spades and Jack of Hearts (often called the “one-eyed jacks”) and the King of Diamonds are drawn in profile; therefore, these cards are commonly referred to as “one-eyed”. The rest of the courts are shown in full or oblique face.
The Jack of Diamonds is sometimes known as “laughing boy”.
Wild cards – When deciding which cards are to be made wild in some games, the phrase “acey, deucey or one-eyed jack” (or “deuces, aces, one-eyed faces”) is sometimes used, which means that aces, twos, and the one-eyed jacks are all wild.
The King of Hearts is the only King with no mustache;
Suicide kings – The King of Hearts is typically shown with a sword behind his head, making him appear to be stabbing himself. Similarly, the one-eyed King of Diamonds is typically shown with an axe behind his head with the blade facing toward him. These depictions, and their blood-red color, inspired the nickname “suicide kings”.
The King of Diamonds is traditionally armed with an axe while the other three kings are armed with swords; thus, the King of Diamonds is sometimes referred to as “the man with the axe”. This is the basis of the trump “one-eyed jacks and the man with the axe”.
The Ace of Spades, unique in its large, ornate spade, is sometimes said to be the death card or the picture card, and in some games is used as a trump card.
The Queen of Spades usually holds a scepter and is sometimes known as “the bedpost queen”, though more often she is called “Black Lady”.
In many decks, the Queen of Clubs holds a flower. She is thus known as the “flower Queen”, though this design element is among the most variable; the standard Bicycle Poker deck depicts all Queens with a flower styled according to their suit.
“2” cards are also known as deuces.
“3” cards are also known as treys.
The clock is a very good element…..makes a shooter nervous about time…..thus more mistakes!
More data points for KillerK rules………unit symbols for battlefield location planning in the 10 meter target zone!
Marx: the best of the best are the Marx figures. Marx Army Men are World War 2 era figures. The company ceased production before more modern troops would have been necessary. That’s a shame – I’d like to see what they’d have done with 1970s era GIs and weapons. In olive drab or tan.
Ideal – rboth armed and ring-hand figures abound! Makers of some pretty wild stuff – their accessories and vehicles outshine their soldiers. We all had them!
MPC – THE source of ring-hand figures and snap-together accessories. Not as well-finished as Marx or Ideal, MPC made its place by a tremendous output and lower prices. The soldiers’ weaponry was WW2 era, the vehicles were from the very early 1950s.
Timmee – a crude recast of older lead figures, not too detailed and rather fluid in form. Still and all, one of the biggest types of no-brand troops that were so abundant. A notable feature was an extra bazooka. Normally sold with a tank and one or more other vehicles. Molded in a good olive drab. Timmmee later introduced the excellent modern GIs with M16 rifles.
Lido – (No-stand #1) – older, crude soldiers with very flat feet rather than a stand. Helmets had a net pattern, uniforms were purely WW2. Difficult to stand on a hard surface, but great in dirt or sand. You could also have them in vehicles, especially the commander’s cupola of toy tanks with opening hatches. Molded in an OD Green that was very dark, although sometimes it seemed almost grayish.
Ideal – (No-stand #2) – much better detail, with WW2 uniforms and weapons. These were not as common. The walking BAR gunner was the coolest! Many troops had carbines. Usually a lighter green.
Little Guys – 40mm scale GIs in olive drab, the bodies were rather flat. Stands were rectangular and uniform. Normally packed with armored trucks, tanks, etc – good assortment of vehicles. These same figures were made in rubber and packed in a toy transport plane called a Globemaster.
New Troops: most new troops are crude recasts of Airfix figures. Generally, they’re copies of Airfix US and German infantry, US and British Paratroops. I have seen Germans molded in green and tan and sold as Gulf War US troops, mainly due to new helmets.
Other brands: one company called BMC has introduced some rather nice playsets. These are all new figures. A few elitist companies make overpriced plastic Army Men. However, the fact that they cost too much to be sold in bags relegates them to scale models or collectibles rather than genuine Army men.
This maybe a good way to denote UNIT strength and structure to play remotely.
For example…..i can post a CHALLENGE using this format and you can post the results of the challenge (win/loss).
a TURN is composed of:
1.player shoots
2.squads that move, move
3.squad that is shot at attacks (not all squads).
a squad invades your base after TURN 6 is completed. The Squad MUST contain a soldier in order to invade. Not all squads move.
A squad is composed of up to 6? units (models super glued on a 10″x10″ cardboard base.
A squads attack value = highest attack value unit in the squad.
For example: a tank in the squad with 5 infantry would be the highest attack value…..thus it would be important for the shooter to take the tank out, otherwise at the end of his turn, the squad attacks back with the tanks attack value.
Unit costs vary upon attack value and special effects. For example a standard infantry would be costs=1, while a sniper is costs=3 due to the effect that if the shooter does not take him out…..he damages you -1 life points.
How to calculate shots you may take per turn.
Count total cost point value of opponent. Now the player may divide this number into 2 statistics…..LIFE and Shots per turn. This makes the player decide if he risks assigning little LIFE and more shots per turn.
Example:
a 6 point infantry squad is the only challenger.
Shooter takes the 6 points and allots 3 points LIFE, 3 shots per turn.
Turn 1: shooter fires 3 rounds, hits 2 infantry….4 remain.
squad moves (check box to track movement,,,,after 6th turn you lose), squad attacks—-highest attack value is standard infantry -1 LIFE to shooter.
Shooter Life=2
Turn 2: shooter fires 3 rounds hits 1…..3 remain..
squad moves (check box to track), squad fires, -1 LIFE to shooter.
Shooter Life =1
Turn 3: shooter fires 3 rounds…….eliminates all 3.
Victory to shooter. Army points gained= Life remaining + shots per round (4)
Some ideas about Unit costs, attack values and effects:
UNIT Name/ Point cost/ Attack Value/ Effects
Infantry/1/1/none
Grenadier/2/1/attack value=2 on turn 5 +6
Mortar/3/2
Bazooka/4/3
Recon (binoculars)/3/adjacent squad moves
Radio/3/while he lives, cannot fire on air support
Sniper/4/1/ -1 life if he lives after firing on squad
Jeep/2/1/increase movement by 1
APC (armored personnel carrier)/4/2/while APC exists, you cannot target infantry….they are onboard.
Tank/5/3/requires 2 hits to destroy
Air Support/5/3/squad moves and fires before you take your turn.
yeah the amount of different units are very vast
flamethrower and landmine soldier.
I saw that toysRus had 3 themes: army, pirates…and i believe zombies?, and fantasy with mythcal beasts. All 3 were sold in a cylindrical barrel that could easily hold 100 units.
Walmart had 100 units of army men for 7$……but they were soooo thin looking…..very very cheap.
Here’s a question: what gun? airsoft would allow us to buy models that would look more realistic and could be reused…..or do we stick with cheap and go with bb and pellet guns?
Just shot a few rounds at 6″ army men……at 30 feet it was tough, 20 feet i was hitting the mark better. If you decide on the small 2″ soldiers……..you may have to reduce the range a little 😉
Im going to create an arc variation called Attack on Titan…..named after the animation.
In this ARC variation, you must defend your town against carnivorous Giants called Titans. The pic above shows the scale.
Try to defend the town and hope your WALLS that protect the population hold up to the giants!
BB soldiers: another ARC game!
Just an idea behind using CARDS as targets.
This is the idea:
Each card is based on a 5 point system….thus 1 card= 5points, for army building purposes.
Attack= X, is the amount of shots you get to make on your turn.
Watch=X, is how many shots you get when an enemy takes a shot at THIS card.
Life=X, is how many shots are needed to eliminate this card.
Each round consists of an initiative roll or rock/paper/scissors to determine who shoots first.
Any thoughts about this idea? maybe cheaper than buying army men.
Other ideas:
+cards depicting handgun, rifle…ect to determine what firearm you can use.
+cards representing TANKS
+cards with enhancements or interrupts to change game play
+a card representing your company comander (CO).
I like the card idea, easy to carry and I’m guessing cheap but I also like seeing the army me fall. Also think that adding more stats will slow down the game. I still like the two dice system or instead of dice use cards to determine how many shots and time you have, maybe evenly determine distance.
Maybe a rule that if you hit the CARD border….the opponent gets a FREE shot back at one of your own soldiers?
Here is another idea. No cards, just plain old army figures and 2 dice!
It is a separation of ARMY types based on ZONES on the battlefield. The zones also determine cost:
Each zoneX denotes point cost. For example: 3 infantry soldiers in Zone2 =6 (3×2)
Zone1 Close combat/ Zombies
10 feet
you loose X amount of life for each enemy soldier in this zone
Zone2 Infantry
20 feet
Zone3 Sniper
30 feet
You get to return fire to all units retired at the end of the opposing players turn.
Zone4 Armor
40 feet
Burst weapons count as 1 shot or full auto 3 second trigger pull or 3 single shots.
Zone5 Air Support
40 feet
If your initiative = your lucky number, you get D6 shots at the end of your turn.
Zone6 HQ
50 feet
You are still in the game if an HQ unit is in this zone.
Medic!: More than 1 unit in this zone allows you to RECOVER 1 soldier at the end of your turn.
Number of Shots you take on your turn= # soldiers alive
Your Life=20 (Note: if you have a unit in HQ, you can continue playing with ZERO life points).
Army points=30, to spend on the various types of soldiers. For example 1 HQ unti would cost 6 points, 2 zone5 untils would cost 10 points…ect
You will need 2 dice to determine TIME LIMIT to take shots…timer starts after the first shot is fired.
Pre-game:
Each player Picks a lucky number 1-6
Establish zones 1-6 area to place soldiers (10,20,30,40,50 feet areas)
Round1:
Establish TURN ORDER. Roll D6 initiative (alternate between HIGH or LOW as trump)
For example higher numbers win initiative on this round, lower on the next.
FIRST player turn
First player counts soldiers on the field to determine shot count.
Timer: First player rolls 2 dice and adds the numbers up….this is the time to shoot.
Countdown starts after first shot.
Air support: You get D6 shots if your
Snipers of the enemy return fire.
Medic!: More than 1 unit in the HQ zone allows you to RECOVER 1 soldier.
Subtract X life for every enemy in Zone1. If your life=0 AND you do not have a unit
in the HQ zone6
a MOVE phase should be added at the end to be able to move any units to ZONE1….for strategic purposes.
Advanced game will include a deck of cards drawn at the beginning of the turn.
a few ideas of card results:
a– Shoot from the hip—no aiming
b– you gain X life
c—every kill this round is -X to your opponent
d– only pistols may fire this round.
solo rules are easy…..roll D6 dice, if the number is equal to or lower than the enemy located in that zone, it is a HIT. Life count for solo gaming is 10.
Tis hard to beat the adjustable stock on the steel Force though. It too has the dual CO2 mag. Have you found any mods for the Force?
Here are some mods
Wow Cant wait! The Steel force is a very cool looking gun–i had a chance at gander mountain to hold one……..very very nice feel to it. I’ll have to finalize the ARC BB soldier rules. Do you like the use of ZONES?-F4x4
This is what I like so far, I like the card idea. The cards should tell you how many shots you get to take how far away and what position you will shoot from standing, on the ground or bench rested. The dice will give you your time limit maybe a four sided die 1-4 minutes. I think anymore than that and it gets too complicated.
We should make a army and a zombie version, with the money we get we could pay someone to create the artwork but we can start with our own artwork first.
ARC attack squad printable playmats!
you will need 1 that represents the battlefield conditions and used for solo play and the other for your 4 man squad!
DBRC presents ANOTHER ARC Themed game! This one fighting the Mars ATTACKS Aliens!
there are 2 playmats printed on standard 8×11 paper:
1.One for the battlefield conditions which define whether or not your soldier can fire this round as well as the solo deck slot to see if you take damage
2.Second playmat is for your 4 man squad.
Dont run out of cards or men!
Equipment needed:
Printout of the 2 playmats, a BB gun, 4 plastic army men setup 50′ away from you to represent the MARS ALIENS and 1 deck of playing cards!
HERE ARE THE LATEST RULES for ARC SQUAD ATTACK!
———————————————————————————-
ARC SQUAD ATTACK!-by DBRC
A. Find a field where it is safe for shooting your BB gun.
B. Each player sets out 4 green plastic soldiers to represent each of their soldiers in the game. If you are playing solo, you will setup 4 green plastic soldiers to represent the SOLO AI player.
C. You will need 1 deck of cards for the Battlefield Conditions Phase which effects all players and 1 deck of cards per player to represent your Squad during the Soldiers Phase. These decks of cards are called the Battlefield Conditions Deck and the Squad Deck.
NOTE: If you are playing solo, only 1 deck of cards is used in the game and it is drawn for Battlefield Conditions Phase, Soldier Phase and Solo Phase
D. Targets should be 25 feet from Firing Position. Place your Squad Mat down and the Squad Deck on the labled slot. A table would be useful, but the ground is sufficient as a play area.
The game is played in rounds composed of the following phases:
1) BATTLEFIELD CONDITIONS PHASE: Draw 1 card from the Battlefield Conditions Deck and place it face-up on the discard pile. During the Attack Phase of the game, only soldiers that have a value GREATER than this card are allowed to attack. Soldiers that match the SUIT of this card get +1 Attack.
2) SOLDIER PHASE: Draw 1 card for each surviving soldier that you have on the battlefield and place them face-up on the available slot. IF you are unhappy with the result of a card, simply draw another card and place it on top of the previously drawn card. NOTE: You may do this as much as you wish, but be warned that this increases the VALUE of this particular soldier and makes you a target for competing players. Every soldier is valued based up the number of cards assigned to their slot. You must assign at least 1 card per soldier slot during this phase, if you cannot due to lack of cards in your Squad Deck you are out of the game.
3) SOLO AI PHASE: Only used for Solo game play. One card is drawn from the Battlefield Conditions Deck and layed down face-up in a Solo Discard pile. The value of the card determines the AI for the game. If the card is a ROYAL or a JOKER, eliminate the left-most soldier slot on your Squad Mat by turning the cards horizontal (tapped). If all of your soldier slots are eliminated, you lose the game. You win the game when you eliminate the 4 Soldiers assigned to the Solo AI player and collect victory points equal to the number of cards in the Solo Discard pile.
4) INITIATIVE PHASE: This is to determine shooting turn order. The highest card value assigned to the left-most soldier slot on each players Squad Mat determines shooting order. Ties are broken by the soldiers value (number of cards in that soldier slot). This phase is skipped if playing SOLO.
5) ATTACK PHASE: Players now fire upon their choice of opponents plastic soldiers. When an elimination is made, the shooter picks which Soldier Slot to eliminate from the opponents Squat Mat. They count the number of cards under the soldier slot to determine Victory Points accumulated and record this on their Squad Mat. To indicate the soldiers elimination the cards in that slot are turned horizontally (tapped), thus indicating that no card can be assigned to this slot during any future soldier phases for that player. Players with no soldier slots are eliminated from the game.
OPTIONAL RULES:
Soldiers with Pistols move 5 feet closer to their targets from Firing Position.
Sniper Rifles, Automatic/Burst capable weapons and Scoped Weapons move 5 feet back from Firing Position.
REPEAT STEPS 1-5 above until last player stands, or SOLO AI Player soldiers are eliminated.
D.B.R.C. RACING 
Thoughts about movement:
IF you move, you trigger an Opportunity of attack from your opponent.
OR
Opponent may claim OVERWATCH (remember spacehulk?), now he gets to fire at any units that move per overwatch points allotted.
OR
lets say a turn is based on 10 points (10 shots)…on your attack phase, you may turn in 1 point for 2 overwatch points…..thus preventing the opponent from moving—pinning them down! Alternatively the moving player can spend 2 points for COVER FIRE (this makes the shooter pick a shooter amongst his army men—if the mover is able to take out the disgnated shooter…..the cover fire is successful and the overwatch player does not get to fire.
What do you think? -F4x4
I think too many rules slows the game down, I like more shooting
Sounds good, yes agreed….more shooting is good. Here is an interesting pic……maybe a way to associate WHO or WHAT is shot at. Could use standard Playing cards
We could also base this system on making a zombie theamed game also
That’s Awesome! I believe wallmart sells these.
I noticed that theirs two types WWII and Vietnam era army men also saw German , Japan and British
Got any links for these?
Will there be any MOVEMENT involved in the game? Maybe movement could define success when an opposing players units “capture the flag” OR to hide army men behind a bunker for cover.
Handicaps: maybe WINS should be tracked and a system used as a handicap for players that arent so great at shooting (aka ME)? Levels could be Private, Corporal, Seargant……ect
Army points? build a force based on existing command structures.
May have to make three or four versions of the game depending on what speed in which you wish to play. I like the idea of roll the dice shoot and race the clock. Also like the idea of setting up two army’s facing the shooters and having the army men or zombies advance forwards after each round once they reach a line points are accumulated you could actually play by yourself that way.
Another idea that you may want to use………..what if its movement, not an individual soldier level,,,,,but SQUAD level. Simply cut a piece of cardboard out for the squad……glue with elmers glue the squad to the cardboard…then attach 10 meter string. On MOVEMENT phase…..pull string!
What do you think?
Have you worked out the dice rolling mechanic yet?
or will you use Playing Cards? ex= Each player picks a suit , like Hearts, and the color RED. if you draw a card that matches your suit, you get another shot! Dont know what you would do with Faces. Here is some more data about cards…if you wish to go that route:
Face cards – Jacks, Queens, and Kings are called “face cards” because the cards have pictures of their names.
One-eyed Royals – The Jack of Spades and Jack of Hearts (often called the “one-eyed jacks”) and the King of Diamonds are drawn in profile; therefore, these cards are commonly referred to as “one-eyed”. The rest of the courts are shown in full or oblique face.
The Jack of Diamonds is sometimes known as “laughing boy”.
Wild cards – When deciding which cards are to be made wild in some games, the phrase “acey, deucey or one-eyed jack” (or “deuces, aces, one-eyed faces”) is sometimes used, which means that aces, twos, and the one-eyed jacks are all wild.
The King of Hearts is the only King with no mustache;
Suicide kings – The King of Hearts is typically shown with a sword behind his head, making him appear to be stabbing himself. Similarly, the one-eyed King of Diamonds is typically shown with an axe behind his head with the blade facing toward him. These depictions, and their blood-red color, inspired the nickname “suicide kings”.
The King of Diamonds is traditionally armed with an axe while the other three kings are armed with swords; thus, the King of Diamonds is sometimes referred to as “the man with the axe”. This is the basis of the trump “one-eyed jacks and the man with the axe”.
The Ace of Spades, unique in its large, ornate spade, is sometimes said to be the death card or the picture card, and in some games is used as a trump card.
The Queen of Spades usually holds a scepter and is sometimes known as “the bedpost queen”, though more often she is called “Black Lady”.
In many decks, the Queen of Clubs holds a flower. She is thus known as the “flower Queen”, though this design element is among the most variable; the standard Bicycle Poker deck depicts all Queens with a flower styled according to their suit.
“2” cards are also known as deuces.
“3” cards are also known as treys.
The clock is a very good element…..makes a shooter nervous about time…..thus more mistakes!
More data points for KillerK rules………unit symbols for battlefield location planning in the 10 meter target zone!
Check out http://littlegreenmentoys.com/54mm-Soldiers-1-32-scale_c8.htm?page=all
This site has a very very comprehensive inventory of all things Plastic green army related! ……most likely too costly to shoot up…..but worth a browse.
The following text taken from http://www.thortrains.net/armymen/armymen3.htm
Know Your Soldiers!
Marx: the best of the best are the Marx figures. Marx Army Men are World War 2 era figures. The company ceased production before more modern troops would have been necessary. That’s a shame – I’d like to see what they’d have done with 1970s era GIs and weapons. In olive drab or tan.
Ideal – rboth armed and ring-hand figures abound! Makers of some pretty wild stuff – their accessories and vehicles outshine their soldiers. We all had them!
MPC – THE source of ring-hand figures and snap-together accessories. Not as well-finished as Marx or Ideal, MPC made its place by a tremendous output and lower prices. The soldiers’ weaponry was WW2 era, the vehicles were from the very early 1950s.
Timmee – a crude recast of older lead figures, not too detailed and rather fluid in form. Still and all, one of the biggest types of no-brand troops that were so abundant. A notable feature was an extra bazooka. Normally sold with a tank and one or more other vehicles. Molded in a good olive drab. Timmmee later introduced the excellent modern GIs with M16 rifles.
Lido – (No-stand #1) – older, crude soldiers with very flat feet rather than a stand. Helmets had a net pattern, uniforms were purely WW2. Difficult to stand on a hard surface, but great in dirt or sand. You could also have them in vehicles, especially the commander’s cupola of toy tanks with opening hatches. Molded in an OD Green that was very dark, although sometimes it seemed almost grayish.
Ideal – (No-stand #2) – much better detail, with WW2 uniforms and weapons. These were not as common. The walking BAR gunner was the coolest! Many troops had carbines. Usually a lighter green.
Little Guys – 40mm scale GIs in olive drab, the bodies were rather flat. Stands were rectangular and uniform. Normally packed with armored trucks, tanks, etc – good assortment of vehicles. These same figures were made in rubber and packed in a toy transport plane called a Globemaster.
New Troops: most new troops are crude recasts of Airfix figures. Generally, they’re copies of Airfix US and German infantry, US and British Paratroops. I have seen Germans molded in green and tan and sold as Gulf War US troops, mainly due to new helmets.
Other brands: one company called BMC has introduced some rather nice playsets. These are all new figures. A few elitist companies make overpriced plastic Army Men. However, the fact that they cost too much to be sold in bags relegates them to scale models or collectibles rather than genuine Army men.
at a slightly higher pricepoint is the StarWars Command plastic figures
Need to know what the latest news is on plastic soldiers? check out the following!
http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/News.aspx
This maybe a good way to denote UNIT strength and structure to play remotely.
For example…..i can post a CHALLENGE using this format and you can post the results of the challenge (win/loss).
Here are some rules thoughts:
a TURN is composed of:
1.player shoots
2.squads that move, move
3.squad that is shot at attacks (not all squads).
a squad invades your base after TURN 6 is completed. The Squad MUST contain a soldier in order to invade. Not all squads move.
A squad is composed of up to 6? units (models super glued on a 10″x10″ cardboard base.
A squads attack value = highest attack value unit in the squad.
For example: a tank in the squad with 5 infantry would be the highest attack value…..thus it would be important for the shooter to take the tank out, otherwise at the end of his turn, the squad attacks back with the tanks attack value.
Unit costs vary upon attack value and special effects. For example a standard infantry would be costs=1, while a sniper is costs=3 due to the effect that if the shooter does not take him out…..he damages you -1 life points.
How to calculate shots you may take per turn.
Count total cost point value of opponent. Now the player may divide this number into 2 statistics…..LIFE and Shots per turn. This makes the player decide if he risks assigning little LIFE and more shots per turn.
Example:
a 6 point infantry squad is the only challenger.
Shooter takes the 6 points and allots 3 points LIFE, 3 shots per turn.
Turn 1: shooter fires 3 rounds, hits 2 infantry….4 remain.
squad moves (check box to track movement,,,,after 6th turn you lose), squad attacks—-highest attack value is standard infantry -1 LIFE to shooter.
Shooter Life=2
Turn 2: shooter fires 3 rounds hits 1…..3 remain..
squad moves (check box to track), squad fires, -1 LIFE to shooter.
Shooter Life =1
Turn 3: shooter fires 3 rounds…….eliminates all 3.
Victory to shooter. Army points gained= Life remaining + shots per round (4)
Some ideas about Unit costs, attack values and effects:
UNIT Name/ Point cost/ Attack Value/ Effects
Infantry/1/1/none
Grenadier/2/1/attack value=2 on turn 5 +6
Mortar/3/2
Bazooka/4/3
Recon (binoculars)/3/adjacent squad moves
Radio/3/while he lives, cannot fire on air support
Sniper/4/1/ -1 life if he lives after firing on squad
Jeep/2/1/increase movement by 1
APC (armored personnel carrier)/4/2/while APC exists, you cannot target infantry….they are onboard.
Tank/5/3/requires 2 hits to destroy
Air Support/5/3/squad moves and fires before you take your turn.
Any thoughts/ideas to add? -F4x4
yeah the amount of different units are very vast
flamethrower and landmine soldier.
I saw that toysRus had 3 themes: army, pirates…and i believe zombies?, and fantasy with mythcal beasts. All 3 were sold in a cylindrical barrel that could easily hold 100 units.
Walmart had 100 units of army men for 7$……but they were soooo thin looking…..very very cheap.
Here’s a question: what gun? airsoft would allow us to buy models that would look more realistic and could be reused…..or do we stick with cheap and go with bb and pellet guns?
Just shot a few rounds at 6″ army men……at 30 feet it was tough, 20 feet i was hitting the mark better. If you decide on the small 2″ soldiers……..you may have to reduce the range a little 😉
Did you destroy the figure
No….but it simply grazed the arm on both figures 😉 got lucky
Im going to create an arc variation called Attack on Titan…..named after the animation.
In this ARC variation, you must defend your town against carnivorous Giants called Titans. The pic above shows the scale.
Try to defend the town and hope your WALLS that protect the population hold up to the giants!
ARC Attack on titan
Download the powerpoint here: (contains everything needed to play)
https://app.box.com/s/8k7y0zcnz5fvq5e7vgks7dny2hfvcnxj
a powerpoint viewer can be downloaded from here:
http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=13
ARC ATTACK Squad Game with SOLO options!
Get the powerpoint and print it on cardstock or paper: https://app.box.com/s/1agkh0mqks1ew2ss3d4s3m1bbn5clwxi
So far I think the simplest method of rolling two dice, one for shot count the other for time on the clock is the best way to play this game
YES i agree….i’ll come up with something simple 😉
BB soldiers: another ARC game!
Just an idea behind using CARDS as targets.
This is the idea:
Each card is based on a 5 point system….thus 1 card= 5points, for army building purposes.
Attack= X, is the amount of shots you get to make on your turn.
Watch=X, is how many shots you get when an enemy takes a shot at THIS card.
Life=X, is how many shots are needed to eliminate this card.
Each round consists of an initiative roll or rock/paper/scissors to determine who shoots first.
Any thoughts about this idea? maybe cheaper than buying army men.
Other ideas:
+cards depicting handgun, rifle…ect to determine what firearm you can use.
+cards representing TANKS
+cards with enhancements or interrupts to change game play
+a card representing your company comander (CO).
-F4x4
I like the card idea, easy to carry and I’m guessing cheap but I also like seeing the army me fall. Also think that adding more stats will slow down the game. I still like the two dice system or instead of dice use cards to determine how many shots and time you have, maybe evenly determine distance.
maybe a 3d card with an area to place an army man?
Take this pic as an example……except you would place an ARMY man in the window box.
What about an army sheet to track your soldiers? SHOTS/Wounds/ and an overwatch?
Definitely like the idea of a DISTANCE/Range factor! -F4x4
Maybe a rule that if you hit the CARD border….the opponent gets a FREE shot back at one of your own soldiers?
Here is another idea. No cards, just plain old army figures and 2 dice!
It is a separation of ARMY types based on ZONES on the battlefield. The zones also determine cost:
Each zoneX denotes point cost. For example: 3 infantry soldiers in Zone2 =6 (3×2)
Zone1 Close combat/ Zombies
10 feet
you loose X amount of life for each enemy soldier in this zone
Zone2 Infantry
20 feet
Zone3 Sniper
30 feet
You get to return fire to all units retired at the end of the opposing players turn.
Zone4 Armor
40 feet
Burst weapons count as 1 shot or full auto 3 second trigger pull or 3 single shots.
Zone5 Air Support
40 feet
If your initiative = your lucky number, you get D6 shots at the end of your turn.
Zone6 HQ
50 feet
You are still in the game if an HQ unit is in this zone.
Medic!: More than 1 unit in this zone allows you to RECOVER 1 soldier at the end of your turn.
Number of Shots you take on your turn= # soldiers alive
Your Life=20 (Note: if you have a unit in HQ, you can continue playing with ZERO life points).
Army points=30, to spend on the various types of soldiers. For example 1 HQ unti would cost 6 points, 2 zone5 untils would cost 10 points…ect
You will need 2 dice to determine TIME LIMIT to take shots…timer starts after the first shot is fired.
Pre-game:
Each player Picks a lucky number 1-6
Establish zones 1-6 area to place soldiers (10,20,30,40,50 feet areas)
Round1:
Establish TURN ORDER. Roll D6 initiative (alternate between HIGH or LOW as trump)
For example higher numbers win initiative on this round, lower on the next.
FIRST player turn
First player counts soldiers on the field to determine shot count.
Timer: First player rolls 2 dice and adds the numbers up….this is the time to shoot.
Countdown starts after first shot.
Air support: You get D6 shots if your
Snipers of the enemy return fire.
Medic!: More than 1 unit in the HQ zone allows you to RECOVER 1 soldier.
Subtract X life for every enemy in Zone1. If your life=0 AND you do not have a unit
in the HQ zone6
NEXT player turn…..
Experienced gained will be the value of the units remaining on the battlefield!
maybe ranking based on military ranks?
a MOVE phase should be added at the end to be able to move any units to ZONE1….for strategic purposes.
Advanced game will include a deck of cards drawn at the beginning of the turn.
a few ideas of card results:
a– Shoot from the hip—no aiming
b– you gain X life
c—every kill this round is -X to your opponent
d– only pistols may fire this round.
solo rules are easy…..roll D6 dice, if the number is equal to or lower than the enemy located in that zone, it is a HIT. Life count for solo gaming is 10.
Pickup a gun with BURST/AUTO capability for ARC……CHECK!
this gun is awesome! STEEL STORM by umarex
normally 139.99$……get it refurbished at this site http://www.airgundepot.com/refurbished-umarex-steel-force-co2-bb-gun.html
The cost= 89.99 + 10% off when you sign up on the site…..in short 80$!
Should be an awesome gun. -F4x4
This is 6-shot burst or single shot.
gander mountain has this gun NEW on sale for 119.99$ (20$ savings)….if you dont want to go the refurbished route.
Cool ordered two refurbished one for you
Awesome! Thanks 😉
I do believe this to be a little better than the steel storm….primarily due to its rifle-like stance-F4x4
Still like the steel storm to, if I can find one cheap I will
Tis hard to beat the adjustable stock on the steel Force though. It too has the dual CO2 mag. Have you found any mods for the Force?
Here are some mods
-F4x4
Bulk Co2 would be a good mod the full auto not to much your limited to the number of bbs you can load
Good point, 30 rounds on the Steel force before you have to shake another 30 from the reserve. (not sure how many BBs in the reserve).
Rifles came in did a test fire with no bobs just to test the seals, very cool.
Wow Cant wait! The Steel force is a very cool looking gun–i had a chance at gander mountain to hold one……..very very nice feel to it. I’ll have to finalize the ARC BB soldier rules. Do you like the use of ZONES?-F4x4
This is what I like so far, I like the card idea. The cards should tell you how many shots you get to take how far away and what position you will shoot from standing, on the ground or bench rested. The dice will give you your time limit maybe a four sided die 1-4 minutes. I think anymore than that and it gets too complicated.
If we’re using the steel force then maybe a special card for full auto use
All very good design points. I’ll get to creating cards and update this post as i create them.
I think we should start something on kickstarter and see if we can publish a real game for retail.
https://www.kickstarter.com/discover/categories/games?ref=discover_index
YES i believe that would be a fun project! What we need though is ART for the cards…..anyway you can start using that talent and draw up some Military themed artwork?
We can get the games printed via something like this
https://www.thegamecrafter.com/
OR
http://www.cartamundi.com/en/print/product/card-games
or
local print shop.
We should make a army and a zombie version, with the money we get we could pay someone to create the artwork but we can start with our own artwork first.
Cowboy slang!
http://ridesouthdakota.com/cowboy-slang-dictionary.html
ARC WW2 game
ARC attack squad printable playmats!
you will need 1 that represents the battlefield conditions and used for solo play and the other for your 4 man squad!
Rule are printed ON the playmat itself!
The Squad playmat is here: https://app.box.com/s/ngxid4h6ypeujwp8yj9so1uyhvph42s6
The Battlefield playmat is here: https://app.box.com/s/g6zumceg8hpkxiqdnz1k46iol30pn967
DBRC presents ANOTHER ARC Themed game! This one fighting the Mars ATTACKS Aliens!
there are 2 playmats printed on standard 8×11 paper:
1.One for the battlefield conditions which define whether or not your soldier can fire this round as well as the solo deck slot to see if you take damage
2.Second playmat is for your 4 man squad.
Dont run out of cards or men!
Equipment needed:
Printout of the 2 playmats, a BB gun, 4 plastic army men setup 50′ away from you to represent the MARS ALIENS and 1 deck of playing cards!
Get the playmats here:
Battlefield playmat1
https://app.box.com/s/5acxoddpvdma18flkzl1bmynpvx868yj
Squad playmat2
https://app.box.com/s/5vkkikl6s13lqczqmzv084fkbyzag5ab
ARC Mars Attacks playsheet
ARC squad Mars Attacks
HERE ARE THE LATEST RULES for ARC SQUAD ATTACK!
———————————————————————————-
ARC SQUAD ATTACK!-by DBRC
A. Find a field where it is safe for shooting your BB gun.
B. Each player sets out 4 green plastic soldiers to represent each of their soldiers in the game. If you are playing solo, you will setup 4 green plastic soldiers to represent the SOLO AI player.
C. You will need 1 deck of cards for the Battlefield Conditions Phase which effects all players and 1 deck of cards per player to represent your Squad during the Soldiers Phase. These decks of cards are called the Battlefield Conditions Deck and the Squad Deck.
NOTE: If you are playing solo, only 1 deck of cards is used in the game and it is drawn for Battlefield Conditions Phase, Soldier Phase and Solo Phase
D. Targets should be 25 feet from Firing Position. Place your Squad Mat down and the Squad Deck on the labled slot. A table would be useful, but the ground is sufficient as a play area.
The game is played in rounds composed of the following phases:
1) BATTLEFIELD CONDITIONS PHASE: Draw 1 card from the Battlefield Conditions Deck and place it face-up on the discard pile. During the Attack Phase of the game, only soldiers that have a value GREATER than this card are allowed to attack. Soldiers that match the SUIT of this card get +1 Attack.
2) SOLDIER PHASE: Draw 1 card for each surviving soldier that you have on the battlefield and place them face-up on the available slot. IF you are unhappy with the result of a card, simply draw another card and place it on top of the previously drawn card. NOTE: You may do this as much as you wish, but be warned that this increases the VALUE of this particular soldier and makes you a target for competing players. Every soldier is valued based up the number of cards assigned to their slot. You must assign at least 1 card per soldier slot during this phase, if you cannot due to lack of cards in your Squad Deck you are out of the game.
3) SOLO AI PHASE: Only used for Solo game play. One card is drawn from the Battlefield Conditions Deck and layed down face-up in a Solo Discard pile. The value of the card determines the AI for the game. If the card is a ROYAL or a JOKER, eliminate the left-most soldier slot on your Squad Mat by turning the cards horizontal (tapped). If all of your soldier slots are eliminated, you lose the game. You win the game when you eliminate the 4 Soldiers assigned to the Solo AI player and collect victory points equal to the number of cards in the Solo Discard pile.
4) INITIATIVE PHASE: This is to determine shooting turn order. The highest card value assigned to the left-most soldier slot on each players Squad Mat determines shooting order. Ties are broken by the soldiers value (number of cards in that soldier slot). This phase is skipped if playing SOLO.
5) ATTACK PHASE: Players now fire upon their choice of opponents plastic soldiers. When an elimination is made, the shooter picks which Soldier Slot to eliminate from the opponents Squat Mat. They count the number of cards under the soldier slot to determine Victory Points accumulated and record this on their Squad Mat. To indicate the soldiers elimination the cards in that slot are turned horizontally (tapped), thus indicating that no card can be assigned to this slot during any future soldier phases for that player. Players with no soldier slots are eliminated from the game.
OPTIONAL RULES:
Soldiers with Pistols move 5 feet closer to their targets from Firing Position.
Sniper Rifles, Automatic/Burst capable weapons and Scoped Weapons move 5 feet back from Firing Position.
REPEAT STEPS 1-5 above until last player stands, or SOLO AI Player soldiers are eliminated.
Here is the PLAY MAT for the above rules!