Welcome to a very affordable and highly tunable Tamiya 4wd series.  At 1/3 the cost of the normal 1/32 slot cars…they are hard to beat.   Don’t look for exact replica’s of the real thing though…this is all about DELTAWING F1 cars.

“Tamiya Mini 4WD cars were first released in 1982. Designed as a cement-free snap together kit, Tamiya Mini 4WD’s are essentially “plastic model kits”. Tamiya’s latest line of Mini 4WD’s is the Pro series, which is built on the MS chassis. This vehicle features a revolutionary double shaft motor for a dramatically lower center of gravity and optimum balance. This PRO series features a twin motor shaft that transmits power directly to both front and rear wheels, which removes the need for a propeller shaft and balancing the motor chassis layout. The MS chassis is designed with a 3-part detachable chassis that can be tuned-up with a wide range of separately available Hop Up parts.

All of the Mini 4WD kits have upgrade parts. For example, using optional ball bearing helps to minimize friction loss and utilize motor power more efficiently. By selecting the right Hop Up parts, you can enhance the performance of your car or the stability in curves during acceleration. “-Tamiya

Pictured below is KillerK’s first racer: the Pro Sonic Tentative ’07 !!!

Tons of options for these racers, from Hollowed drive shafts to Carbon fiber parts and all sorts of tires.   As far as motors, looks like there are 3 types in the PRO line up:  REV, ATMOIC and TORQUE —all about strategy.

Now if your looking for a more REALISTIC LOOK, the bodies can all be replaced and they even sell lexan bodies that you have to paint.

**pictured above is a Tom’s SUPRA body on a 4wd pro

Go here to find a good selection and decent prices:


15 comments on “Mini4WD

  1. KillerK, check out this vid. Great track made entirely of cardboard. Albeit the video is trying to demonstrate how the rollers have an affect on keeping the car on the track on humps. I believe they are set at 15 degrees…..if its set to 0 degrees the car will fly off track.

  2. Just tested the effectiveness of a rear stay DRAG break. It is simply 2 plastic ball ends attached to the rear bumper. When hitting the approach to the ramp, the rear drags and slows the car down thus preventing the car from leaving the track. Works better than expected -formula4x4

    a)circuit racing (pre-bought track)–regulation track width

    b)rally —on dirt usually and is combined with pre-bought track pieces

    c)free track– super wide track not to normal tamiya regulation standards

    d)dash–just draw a start line and finish line and let them go….no track.

    e)stick driving –just get a hockey puck like stick and guide the car on a course

    f)extreme (m4x) –highly modified mini4wd cars made to address certain challenges, like ice, rocks, water…ect

    g)leash guided –just tie a string 2-3meters long on the back and “walk the dog”

  4. Picture Name RPM (With Load) RPM (Without Load) Torque Power Consumed
    FA-130 Motor 9900 13800 10 g-cm 1100
    Touch Dash Touch Dash 11200 15000 10 g-cm 1300
    Torque Tuned Torque Tuned 12000 13600 14.5 g-cm 1200
    Atomic Tuned Atomic Tuned 13700 15700 10 g-cm 1300
    Rev Tuned Rev Tuned 14300 17600 10 g-cm 1500
    Hyper Dash Hyper Dash 17200 19300 10 g-cm 1600
    Hyper Dash 2 Hyper Dash 2 ? ? 10 g-cm 1600
    Mach Dash Mach Dash 20800 23400 15 g-cm 1900
    Jet Dash Jet Dash 23000 28000 22 g-cm 4000
    Ultra Dash Ultra Dash 24000 29000 20 g-cm 4000
    Plasma Dash Plasma Dash 25000 29000 20 g-cm 4100

    This data taken from

    • KillerK—-What do you think the NEXT motor grade should be. NOTE that teh last number is power consumption. This means the Plasma Dash car would have to pit-IN more often than a car running the hyper dash motor.
      Im kinda leaning towards the MACH DASH? -any thoughts?

      V6—any interest in getting a chassis? if your interested let me know and i’ll try to pick you up one. You will want the Mini 4WD PRO chasis…..for parts availability and mods!

      Here is a nice gear ration chart too:

      I’m thinking about Papercrafting some mods to my EXISTING track circuit…..for example a MANUAL PIT-IN lever…..just some ideas.
      Let me know if you have any ideas. We could even have the track open up to open ground with a set of tracks on the other side to “funnel” the cars to the proper place 😉

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